Saturday 25 January 2014

Thyagaraja aradhana 2014


Tuesday 21 January 2014

The pancharatna kritis morn; on the sidelines

We chose to cover the aradhana in parts on Tuesday morning. One of us went into the streets to look around and came back with a small collection of photos of rangolis of Thyagaraja.

One doesn't miss the two rangolis that the simple households opposite the main gate design for this occasion.

The mallari during the procession of the image of the saint composer from the memorial to the pandal was great and by 8a.m. the panda was full and even pass holders had to retreat.

It had drizzled in the morn; adding to the heavy dew but when the sun came up it was fierce and sharp.

But the diehard rasikas squatted on the campus, pulled out the printed lyrics circulated by Tamil newspapers and joined the gosti singing of the pancharatna kritis, said to be the jewels of Thyagaraja's compositions.

Only a few well known artistes made it to the singing this year; so rasikas who lined up the exit after the singing were disappointed.

At the dining hall of the sabha that manages the aradhana, the lunch was free today and the crowds surged in for a nice meal.


Hungry at 10.30 p.m..

The town is till not ready to play host to the aradhana traveller yet.

Those who come from Bangalore or Andhra Pradesh tend to book into hotels in Thanjavur ( 12 mms away), the middle class folks checking into dinghy lodges here. Some chathrams also offer space and wash facilities.

But all food shops are shut after 10 p.m. On Monday night, the swathes of rasikas who streamed out of the pandal after the string of concerts by famous artistes grabbed the food they could on the main road.

Dosas and parotta was all that some shops offered and that too ran out in 30minutes. The famed shop for Asokha Halwa keeps open till midnight.


The local police though have diverted the heavy traffic that runs the town; it roars after 10 p.m

The big evening; Srinivas, Palanivel, Sudha and Yesudoss

Monday was a really big evening at the aradhana.
The crowd was so massive that many chose to move out only after 11 p.m.

Though it was a working day, people seem to have to come in by the hundreds for the big line-up of concerts - Mandolin Srinivas with Aridwaramangalam Palanivel, Sudha Ragunathan and K J Yesudoss.

The nadaswaram brigade was all around the stage when Palanivel launched the recital; in a high voltage show the team was indeed the main attraction of the aradhana.

Sudha though kept it simple and straight and it needed a team of cadets and police to escort Yesudoss out of his car, to the saniddhi and then backstage.

He still has legions of fans. In the crowd stood schoolgirls Harshini and Bharathi; one with a book to get autographs and the other with a smartphone to capture the artistes.

Yesudoss also kept it simple and straight ( Ganesh Kumaresh, the violinists duo though gave theirs a dash of fusion) but the concert went on and on.

When the nadaswaram began, as per tradition it was close to 11 p.m. on Monday.


Monday 20 January 2014

To Grand Anaicut. And to the monument for a great Chozhan

The morning was for a destination we had postponed yesterday. To the Grand Anaicut.
If the road to this world famous space is scenic, the anaicut environs allow for long walks - perhaps best done after 4 p.m. in a forgiving sun on the other side.

The waters were being let into the Vennar and in the Coleroon and early couples were finding some nice spots in the islands of green.

On one flank of this dam rises the brand new monument paid for by the present AIADMK government; a tribute to Karikala Chozhan, the man credited with having built the engineering marvel across the great Cauvery. The Grand Anaicut.

The spotless white monument, in its final stage draws busts and signposts that credit the Englishmen who added to the dam in the late 19th century.

We check out the place casually, and are greeted by a massive cast bronze elephant sitting in a lorry and about to be unloaded and set up inside the monument.

The Chozhan raja statue lies on the floor, packed; to be mounted on the elephant. ( A similar image but in cement stands in a island closely).

And then we have a surprise - the statue is the work of the well known Nagappa of Madras; now in its 4th generation. Kishore is here to supervise the work. And we go down memory lane. For,  old timers of the city are familiar with the Nagappas since their Narasingapuram ( off Mount Road) days.

The road holds many surprises; make sure you step off the main when you can!




All sorts are in the pandal . .

Last evening was also time to catch up with people and make new friends, Sunday that it was.

There was this group which was armed with dismantible chairs, still and movie cameras and even a set of binoculars - to catch a close view of the artistes on stage.

And a family from Mannargudi, visiting friends in the town and adjourning to the pandal. The teenager boy was curious with our online blogging, shared his own experiences with the tech stuff and then took his dad's Samsung phone to shoot some visuals so he could edit and post a one-minute film online of the aradhana.

His little sister  created a sundal-like cone paper pack and packed sand in it at one end and deposited it at another, laughing at her intermittent amusement.

At about 9.30 p.m.it was time for the All India Radio engineers ( who stay put on all days beside the stage) to link up two concerts on the national network. Those of Priya Sisters and of flutist B Vijayagopal.

Sunday 19 January 2014

On the fringe of the pandal . .

Sunday evening is pleasant here. And the crowd will begin to stream in to the panda in large numbers.

Time to walk around the pandal.

In the river, men are brushing their teeth, washing clothes, wading and having a bath. This is a 'no go' zone for women; you get a better view of the river and the dipping sun if you walk along the pandal, than behind it.

The real market of stalls flourishes behind the pandal. Books, bhel, feet relaxation pads, agarbathis, music, health drinks and 'Only Coffee'.


It is on this pathway, that the gate to the samadhi lies, the engraved name stones in tact.

On the road . . .


Thiruvaiyaru presents many destinations to explore. In case you want to break away from the music at the aradhana.

This Sunday we chose to hit the road alongside the river and head to Thirukattupali. 

Patches of water keep the river alive - just enough for local people to wash and paddle.

The countryside though is green, rolling rice fields, green and yellow as far as the eye can see on our right side.

Rising from that green and yellow swathe are the spires of a church. That is our first destination.

The basilica dedicated to Mother Mary of Poondi. This is a big destination for the faithful, including non Christians. And this campus is huge by church standards! Lodging rooms, halls, depots and even spaces for birds. So you can plan a pilgrimage picnic and tent here for a sit on sand and eat lunch.

The massive church impresses; the interior does not. The vintage parts have been stripped for granite, wood and steel.

Behind the main altar, is the core shrine - where people are lost in prayer. And enclosed in a monstrance is a sliver of what is claimed to be a piece of the cross.

We choose to spend time gazing at the river. 'Swimming here is Danger', says a board.


The Grand Anaicut was on our plan. We are hungry, so we adjourn for lunch at Thirukattupalli, feel heavy and return.

Sunday morning likes . .


We wake up to a wizened woman drawing a kolam at our doorstep. This creative ritual has been long over at other doorsteps in the agraharam. The bath reminds us how we have been banished to bathe in hard water in our cities - made a mistake to apply shampoo here. Foolish us!

I must attend to my Sunday must - Holy Mass. We head to the church in Thiruvaiyaru dedicated to the madha ( Mary) where the recitation of the rosary is drowned in the honks, grinding tyres and impatient swerves of the lorries - this small town stands bang in the criss-cross of heavy, goods and passenger-ladden traffic.

Youths inside the church make an effort to strap a white screen across casuarina poles beside the altar. When the Mass begins I realize the reason for this effort - flash the lyrics of the Mass songs on a screen to coax the congregation to sing together.

The nadaswaram music floats in a tad after 9 a.m. from the aradhana pandal, 800 mts away. Start of Day 3 at the aradhana.

It is a lazy Sunday here. Slots of juniors, some sing off key some on but then this is just a tribute; and it is all in the spirit.

A pad in Thillasthanam . . .


Time for change. Skip a hotel room in Thanjavur and stay in the village of Thillasthanam, some 2 kms from Thiruvaiyaru. Our 
host here is Prof. Kausalya, retired Head of College of Music here and a scholar and now promoter of the Marabu Foundation.

Kausalya has rented a vintage house in this quiet agraharam, just off the riverside to run Marabu's activities.

She also rents a few rooms to those who wish to upgrade their music/dance skills in these quiet environs.

It is back to the old times; bathe around the well and in the open, sleep on the floor or on an old bed, and let the small fan whir you to sleep.

Fests on river beds . .

We, the second part of the KutcheriBuzz Team hit the road on Saturday evening. To Thiruvaiyaru.

Off the highway south, celebrations greeted us. Festivals on river beds and around. The buzz remained till we swung left into Ariyalur - a horrible 5 kms and a bit of the same in between but a newly-laid road thence, to our destination.

The mandolin's music - of U P Raju and wife Nagamani welcomed us. The accompanying tavil piercing the 9 p.m. night.

As T N S Krishna paid his tribute on stage we were convinced that the audio was too loud, the floodlights too sharp. Listening to the concerts away from the panda arena was a better experience.

Banks competed with each other in welcoming guests. City Union Bank though is and has been the lead sponsor.

The nadaswaram-tavil artistes took over at 10 p.m. and we walked down, the post-Pournami moon presenting a soothing visual to a long day.


Saturday 18 January 2014

Keeping vigil at the pandal

While the Police take care of the security at the entrance and around the pandal, the smart Scouts team keeps an eye on the people inside the pandal.

Nagarajan, the senior among the team regulates the movement near the performance dais.

The young students Parthiban and Alfa, from the Railway Scouts run around the pandal briskly and help the organisers in crowd management.

Volunteers have a huge role to play in such events and these men in grey do their job well.


Quick bites and coffee

You might want to grab a quick snack and coffee before entering the aradhana pandal. There are a few food counters that serve you oily bajjis and pakodas. If you want to just pack a few murukkus, look for a woman who brings in the light eats in limited quantity and sits close to the Valmiki Mantapa.

There is a 'Only Coffee' counter in the same row as the Aradhana committee's office stall is located. Coffee is served in traditional brass dabra-tumbler and is worth a check.


 

Friday 17 January 2014

Aradhana updates on FaceBook

When the Internet lines are not too strong, we get back to our mobile phone and apps to post on the Facebook page. Easier to post two lines and simple pictures!

Do follow us at https://www.facebook.com/kutcheribuzz


C. Rangarajan inaugurates this year's aradhana

The customary lighting of kuthuvilakku is followed by a simple inauguration. C. Rangarajan, Chairman, Economic Advisory Council to Prime Minister and his wife arrive without much of fanfare.

Sunitha Vasan represents G.K. Vasan, the Union Minister of Shipping at this function.
G.Rangaswamy Moopanar, president, Sri Thyagabrahma Mahothsava Sabha and N. Subbaiyan, District Collector, Thanjavur sit composed on the dais.

Three students  from Thiruvaiyaru Govt. Music College sing the prayer and the inaugural speeches begin.

C. Rangarajan was happy to trace his connection with Thiruvaiyaru. He said his mother hails from Kalyanapuram, a village near Thiruvaiyaru and he also lived there for sometime. G.R. Moopanar mentions the contribution of G.K. Moopanar to the aradhana and speaks on its growth to today's magnitude.

Srimushnam Raja Rao, in his usual style, sings, quotes the speakers in his vote of thanks!


Snapshots Of The Aradhana Pandal ...

Visitors having a close look at backstage

Children enjoying with the Tavil finger caps and stick while waiting at the pandal

Audience engrossed in listening to the music

Aradhana opens with Nadaswaram

As you enter Tiruvaiyaru town at 4.30 pm, the music of Nadaswaram floats in the air. The road leading to the samadhi of Thyagaraja is all decked up with thoranams on both sides and the loudspeakers transmits the music from the pandal to the streets.

At the pandal, Thirupambaram brothers, TKS Meenakshisundaram and TSN Seshagopalan  perform at a make-shift stage since the main stage facing the Saint's samadhi is arranged with chairs for the inaugural function.



The visitors are permitted to be seated inside the pandal after a security check. Already seated are around 200 people listening to the nadaswaram.

Many men in white have gathered to receive G.K. Vasan, union minister and a member of the Board of Trustees of the Thyagabrahma Mahotsava Sabha. G. Rangaswamy Moopanar, their 'chinna ayya, as he is fondly referred to, is also awaited at the pandal.

Portraits of Thyagaraja

As you go around Tiruvaiyaru, you get to see the images of Thyagaraja in paintings, stone sculptures, serial bulbs, posters ...

The mandapam that houses his samadhi has a few portraits and each of them is a different version of the Saint's image.

Here are a few. We will post more during the five days of our camping in Tiruvaiyaru.




Thyagarajar illam. Home to the Saint's music.

The house where Thyagaraja lived his entire life and composed host of kritis is now a glaze-tiled construction. The Unchavrithi Bhajanai starts from this renovated building in Thirumanjana veedhion the Aradhana day.



The house was originally built for Rama Brahmam, father of Thyagaraja, by King Thulajendra, the then Maratha ruler of Thanjavur. Made of mud and clay, the house was found in a dilapidated condition and the Sri Thyagabrahma Mahotsava Sabha renovated it to what is now Thyagarajar Illam. It now has an arch at the entrance and a bronze idol of Thyagaraja inside a mantapam. The pillars and walls of the large hall have musical instruments sculpted on them.

During the five days of the Aradhana, this 'illam' remains open for most part of the day. The residents of the house opposite the illam (still an old tiled house) take care of this Thyagaraja's home. Bhanu, who is nice to the visitors, takes you inside and shows you around the home.




Bombay Jayashri's sishyas to hold workshop for local kids

Things happen on the sidelines of the aradhana.

Here is one.

And it is hosted by Dr Rama Kausalya, Managing Trustee, Marabu Foundation in Thillasthanam where kids are trained in arts and skills literacy to make a change in their young lives.

This aradhana, well known musician, Bombay Jayashri is organising a project for the children of Marabu Foundation. After discussions, it was decided that, three of her disciples - Poornima, Abinaya and Shwetha will conduct classes for the children during the Tyagaraja Aradhana this year. (20th and 21st January, 2014).

Across these two days, four sessions are to be held and they will interact with the children and introduce them to the aspects of classical music and teach them some songs too.

Marabu Foundation has its own heritage space in this village some 3 kms from Thiruvaiyaru.

Wednesday 15 January 2014

5 Things To Do in Thiruvaiyaru

If you are  in Thiruvaiyaru during the aradhana, explore the small town during the day and visit some interesting places close by.

Here are a few tips

1. Of course, the main attraction is to enjoy the concerts while sitting on the sand - concerts happen from 9 am onwards. Be there beyond 10 pm when the nadaswaram vidwans take the stage and their music carries on into the night. Take a shawl along to brave the chill breeze from the riverside.



2. Walk down to the other side of the Cauvery- on its dry-wet bed. Or take the road to Thiruvaiyaru bus stand and walk down south on the Thanjavur road. After crossing the Cauvery bridge, take a left turn after the petrol bunk. And visit the Pattabhirama Temple, where Thyagaraja and Muthuswamy Dikshitar worshiped. It is said that this was the deity on which Dikshitar composed the Manirangu raga kriti 'Mamava Pattabhirama'. This is a small and well kept temple. Observe Lakshmana's image holding two bows - one of his and the other of Rama's!

3. Go to the Pushya Mahal ghat on the same shore on which Thyagaraja's samadhi is located. Stand on the platforms of the ghat built in a unique architectural style and gawk at the slowly flowing streak of Cauvery. Also visit the Govt. Music College campus, a 100 + year old building and visit a few departments like Sanskrit and Tamil. Great sights for a heritage buff.

Pushya Mahal ghat on the left and the Govt. Music College on the right
4. Visit Panchanadeeswara Temple before dusk and walk around the huge campus with 5 prakaras (outer precincts). Don't miss the colourful wall murals in the second prakara and the Surya Pushkarini, the huge temple pond.



5. Taste the Thiruvaiyaru special Ashoka halwa. This bright orange colour sweet made of green gram (moong dal or payatham paruppu) is something every tourist wants to pick up. Head to the well-known Andavar Sweets Shop in South Street. The traffic is heavy and flows continuously on this narrow road, so you need to get down quickly, grab the packed halwa in a jiffy and get into your vehicle. Caution - this is a high-calorie sweet with ghee dripping from the pack!

Pandal getting ready at Thyagaraja's samadhi

The plain riverbed alongside River Cauvery will see hundreds of musicians and thousands of music lovers in two days from now. The five-day aradhana  begins at the samadhi of Saint Thyagaraja on Jan. 17.

The pandal enclosing the two stages facing the samadhi of Thyagaraja is getting ready for the once-a-year grand event. Also erected are the stalls for the businesses and organisations that pop up during the aradhana in this space.

On the Pongal day, the work was going on in full swing. The audio equipments have arrived at the pandal. Colourful Thanjavur style arch welcomes you as you enter the samadhi through the small lane from the main road.

A few yards away from the samadhi, a Tamil music festival is on for three days from Pongal. Blaring loudspeakers lined up on one side of the road indicate the music will flow for a week more!

The small town is ready to welcome loads of guests. But, Cauvery is just a streak of water now.

Here are the first pictures from the spot -


 



 

Aradhana Schedule

Click on the image to read ...

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Thursday 9 January 2014

The mantapa is going up!

The tradition continues. A ritual we all believe in. Praying for all the goodness one needs for such a huge event.
And so, a few weeks ago a ceremony was held to launch the work of erecting the mantapam that will house the artistes and the rasikas at the aradhana. On the banks of the Cauvery, now dry.

The jobs flow from one to the other; well practiced over the years.

This is where hundreds of rasikas and at least 200 artistes will listen and perform, paying tribute to Thyagaraja at his samadhi.

Here is where many travelers will nap a bit or even rest for the night during the aradhana.

Wish the men in charge toned the lights and lowered the volumes that often hurt a discerning rasika.

Tuesday 7 January 2014

A Rough Guide on the aradhana; accommodation, travel options

The aradhana is generally held in the third / fourth week of January, and this is the best time of the year to tour these parts. Tiruvaiyyaru, a quaint village near Thanjavur, seems to live just for the festival. A reasonably full Cauvery, cool mornings and the vast tracts of mist covered paddy fields complement the divine music at the aaradhana.

Thyagaraja aradhana 2013
Thanjavur, the nearest town to Tiruvaiyyaru, is 13 kilometres away and is easily accessible. State transport buses from Thanjavur take nearly 45 minutes to reach Carnatic music's own pilgrimage destination. There is a bus every 20 minutes.

Autorickshaws can take you ride to Tiruvaiyyaru but this can cost a bit. Meter systems are non-existent for this route - so make sure you have fixed the fare before you jump in!

The aaradhana is not the only attraction at Tiruvaiyyaru. The much forgotten and neglected tenth century Shiva temple of Panchanadeeshwarar and Dharmasamvardhani Ambal is a treasure trove of Chola architecture and paintings.

As the name of the presiding deity and the town suggest, Tiruvaiyyaru has as many as five rivers running nearby.

There are some interesting lores associated with this ancient temple. For example doing a pradakshinam of the Tiruvaiyyaru temple is not allowed because it is believed that Lord Shiva's holy locks grow here. Having a local resident on your side will help you gather lots of wonderful tidbits like these.

Get your lodging organised at Thanjavur as there are virtually no facilities in Tiruvaiyyaru. The good hotels are

Hotel Sangam:
Contact No:  04362 239455
Website: www.hotelsangam.com

Hotel Abi's Inn:
Contact No:  04362 232208
Website: www.hotelabisinn.com

Hotel Gnanam:
Contact No:  04362 278501
Website: www.hotelgnanam.com

Flights Available to Thanjavur:
[The nearest airport is Trichy. Tanjavur is a one hour journey from there.]
Spice Jet-SG 3165 [10:35-11:45]
Jet Konnect S2-3798 [06:05-07:10]
Jet Konnect S2-3405 [13:45-14:55]

Flights Available to Chennai:

Jet Konnect S2-3799 [07:40-08-45]
Jet Konnect S2-3406 [15:20-16:25]
Jet Konnect S2-3790 [20:00-21:10]
Spice Jet SG-3166 [12:00-12:55]

Trains Available to Thanjavur:

Train No: 16853
Train Name: Trichy Express
Departs from: Chennai Egmore station
Departure: 08:15
Arrival: 14:43

Train No: 16701
Train Name: Rameswaram Express
Departs from: Chennai Egmore station
Departure: 21:40
Arrival: 03:38

Train No: 16101
Train Name: Rameswaram Express
Departs from: Chennai Egmore station
Departure: 21:40
Arrival: 03:38

Train No: 16179
Train Name: Mannai Express
Departs from: Chennai Egmore station
Departure: 22:00
Arrival: 04:35

Train No: 16183
Train Name: Thanjavur Express
Departs from: Chennai Egmore station
Departure: 23:30
Arrival: 07:15

Train No: 12793
Train Name: Madurai Express
Departs from: Chennai Egmore station
Departure: 22:45
Arrival: 04:53

Train No: 22623
Train Name: Madurai Express
Departs from: Chennai Egmore station
Departure: 22:45
Arrival: 04:53

Trains Available to Chennai:

Train No: 16180
Train Name: Mannai Express
Departs from: Thanjavur station
Departure: 22:45
Arrival: 05:50

Train No: 16702
Train Name: Chennai Express
Departs from: Thanjavur station
Departure: 23:27
Arrival: 06:30

Train No: 16102
Train Name: Chennai Express
Departs from: Thanjavur station
Departure: 23:27
Arrival: 06:30

Train No: 16180
Train Name: Chennai Express
Departs from: Thanjavur station
Departure: 00:45
Arrival: 07:20

Train No: 16180
Train Name: Chennai Express
Departs from: Thanjavur station
Departure: 00:47
Arrival: 07:20

Many aaradhana pilgrims opt to spend the nights under the pandal inside the Thyagaraja Temple. The smart traveller can befriend a local and be his guest for a couple of days but paying guests are not exactly the rage here - drop the idea if you are not the adventurous type! Walking is the best way of getting around in Thiruvaiyyaru. Autos charge Rs.15 even for short distances!

Hotel Ganesh Bhavan, near the town bus stand, is the only good restaurant in Tiruvaiyyaru. But here too, as the aradhana approaches, the water levels in the chutney and sambar go up drastically! You can eat at the Thyagaraja memorial campus but only if you are prepared to fight it out for a place inside the dining hall. Don't miss the mouth-watering local speciality called Asoka Halwa.

Veterans of Thiruvaiyyaru bring their food packed from nearby towns. Otherwise, be prepared to survive on oily snacks, tender coconut water, fruits and hot coffee.

Communication is not a problem at Tiruvaiyyaru, there are lots of STD booths around but don't expect the luxury of a speedy Internet.

Fax is your best bet for an urgent message. Arm yourself with a good camera for some great photo opportunities.

Every village enroute to Tiruvaiyyaru from Thanjavur has a temple whose history dates back to a few centuries!

Monday 6 January 2014

Thyagaraja Aradhana. Jan. 17 to 21

For all those who plan to take part in the annual Thyagaraja Aradhana in Thanjavur, here are the dates. The aradhana is from Jan. 17 to 21, 2014.
The Pancharatna group singing session will take place on on Jan. 21, 2014.
The aradhana is held at the samadhi and memorial of the saint composer at Thiruvaiyaru, about 14 kms from Thanjavur. Concerts take place through the day and night and are open to all.